Jalie 2105 leotard and how to colorblock

Myra has been asking for a new leotard for gymnastics for a couple of weeks now. Her current leo has long sleeves and full length legs and it's getting a little too warm in the gym for that.

I decided to jump on the SCUBA trend, which I think lends itself really well to a gym leotard. I skipped the zipper, since I didn't think it would be comfortable for gymnastics, but went for some colorblocking and a wetsuit like shape.

I used Jalie 2105, which is unfortunately out of print. I'm glad I snapped it up when I did. This is the third time I've used it and I know I will use it again. For this version, I shortened the leg and sleeve to give her a cap sleeve, shortie leotard that should be comfortable in the summer heat.

I extended the neon pink animal print colorblocked area in back as well, although the back panel is narrower. It's pretty pointy at the top, which was kind of a pain to sew.

The fabrics I used were a black milliskin matte spandex, originally from Spandex World, but left over from these bike shorts I made for Mitch. The neon pink animal print was a recent purchase from Spandex World. It's a cotton/lycra spandex, so it has a spongy softness that is very comfortable. Myra really likes it. But then. it's neon pink animal print, so that was a given.

Today's Tip

Today I wanted to show you how easy it is to colorblock any pattern, and share with you one of my favorite marking tools.
The first step in colorblocking any pattern is to decide where you want to "cut up" the pattern. I like to draw right on my pattern pieces before I trace them. It saves me the step of then retracing to add seam allowances.

I use these amazing Frixion pens. I first heard about them from Elizabeth, and they have changed my life. They are completely erasable with a touch of heat. I use them to mark patterns, fabric, pretty much everything. A shot of steam or a touch of the iron removes the mark. So, I use the Frixion pens to outline the size I'm using.

Then in a separate color (so that I don't get confused), I draw my colorblocking line or lines. Now I'm ready to trace. Trace each side of the pattern piece as a separate piece, and remember to add a seam allowance along both sides of the colorblocking lines.

My final front pattern pieces look like this. I used a 1/4 inch seam allowance on the seam that joins my colorblocked section as that is the seam allowance used throughout the pattern. Again so I don't get confused; you can use whatever SA you want.

Now you can take your iron to your pattern pieces and it'll look good as new. Love those Frixion pens.

Now reassemble the panels you colorblocked before you start construction on the garment. Once they are put back together, you can treat them just like the pieces they were originally and follow the pattern instructions as written. Or not. You're the sewist. If you choose to line your garment, you can use the original pattern pieces to reduce the seamlines in your lining.

Cake Patterns Tiramisu dress #2

What? The serger's still threaded with black! There will be a lot of black knits comin' atcha.

But really that was just an excuse to make a polka dot Tiramisu. I think everyone should have a polka dot Tiramisu.

The fabric is an ITY knit from FabricMart. It's a little thinner than their usual ITY, which made it a little harder to control. Fortunately, this pattern is a super easy make.

While I love my first Tira and wear it often, I did make a few changes to this one. The biggest change was to the neckline. Instead of binding the neckline with my coverstitch machine, I used the band provided in the pattern. And it's SO MUCH BETTER. No gaping at all. The neckline stays snug and tight against my body no matter what I do.

I didn't want to fuss with pattern matching, so I cut the back and skirt panels on the fold. I love how this fits in back. Perfect right out of the envelope. Love.

I also shortened the midriff panel 1/2 inch and the skirt 3 1/2 inches from my initial make, which still leaves it a bit longer than the pattern as drafted. I like the proportions of this one a little better I think, particularly the midriff area.

Myra freaked out at my "Minnie Mouse" dress when she saw it, so I used the little piece I had left to make her a cap sleeve peasant top. I used Simplicity 2377, which I've used several times for her before. Naturally she styled it with more polka dots...

Today's Tip

Hemming fine gauge knits can be a tricky proposition, particularly if they are slippery, as ITY tends to be. I know many sewing gurus recommend interfacing knit hems, but I've never been happy with that method. For me, it seems to stiffen the hem, even with really lightweight interfacing, as well as reducing stretch. I prefer to use fusible thread.

I love this stuff so much! I really allows you to get a nice crisp, stable hem on unruly fabrics. Here's how.
First, you need a bobbin wound with fusible thread. No special winding method - just use the winder on your machine. Then sew a line of straight stitching at the fold line of your hem. Be sure that the right side of the fabric is facing up.

The black stitching in the above picture is regular sewing thread. The white is the fusible. Now you'll turn and press your hem, using your stitching line as your guide. Use lots of steam to melt the fusible. You may find that a bit of the fusible thread sticks to your iron, so use a press cloth if needed.

Once the entire hem is fused, you can easily pull away the top thread. You needn't be gentle - your hem isn't going anywhere! It may take a tug or two to pull it away from the fusible.

Now take your crisply pressed hem to your machine. Sew it with a stretch twin needle or a coverstitch machine. I don't use any pins for a short hem, but a might put in a few for a longer hem, like a circle skirt. For the Tiramisu, I pinned at the seams.

Once it's stitched, I like to give it a final press from the right side, to be sure that the fusible is really set. It doesn't wash out, so if your hem has rippled slightly, this is your chance to fuse it into place.

Now isn't that lovely? This technique also works well on woven fabrics that don't press well, like polyester suitings. Give it a try! I think you'll like it!

SwimAlong 2013: SCUBA Chic

Swimwear as daywear? The Fall 2013 runways shows were awash (haha) with swimwear and SCUBA inspired pieces. SCUBA Chic is totally a thing, and I want to show it to you.

Image from lyst.com

I think this colorblocked suit from Michael Kors hits the trend for me. It's sold out everywhere, but that's why we sew...

Image from lyst.com

The trend is inspired by SCUBA gear, so you'll see sporty elements like chunky plastic zippers and heavyweight, matte fabrics. Seams are in curvy, body-con shapes that accentuate a feminine figure.

Image from bardotstylefile.com

Colorblocking is huge, and fabrics are generally in vibrant, saturated solid colors paired with black. The rare print is graphic with strong geometric shapes. You won't see frills or florals here.

Ready to make your own SCUBA inspired piece?

Why not start with Jalie 3135? This pattern is asking to be colorblocked, and the zipper is already there for you!

Don't fancy a zip? Vintage Kwik Sew 810 has the SCUBA style high neckline and is already princess seamed, so the colorblocking is easy! I found it on Etsy here.

Jalie 3134 is a modern option with front stripe panels and a sporty racerback.

To really get an accurate SCUBA look, you need a heavier, matte fabric that will look like the neoprene used in typical SCUBA gear.

My preference is a Milliskin spandex with a matte finish. Spandex World has an assortment of colors, including this on trend neon green!

Accessorize with zippers and belting! 

To get the look you want, you'll need a #5 molded plastic zipper. These can be tricky to source in colors, but black is readily available.

For your belt, start with flat nylon webbing.  Sewn on a plastic snap buckle and you are ready to hit the surf!

Now if only I could find these shoes in my size...